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Candling parrot beak birds Eggs

Candling eggs is a straight-forward process but it helps to have some pictures to know what you’re looking for!

t is necessary to candle eggs for fertility when you are incubating eggs artificially using an incubator. Infertile or bad eggs can be discarded so that there is no risk of them going bad and exploding inside the incubator, contaminating the other eggs.

If you are using a separate incubator or hatcher for the last few days of incubation to hatch your eggs, the extra space can be used for more eggs, provided the incubator is kept sterile.

Candling does not damage the embryos inside the eggs as long as you don’t heat the egg up too much with the heat from the candling device or keep the eggs out of the incubator for too long, so it is ideal to get a glimpse at what is going on inside your eggs.

DIY candling lamp

Candling gets its name from days gone by when people used to use candles as the light source. Of course these days, you can buy or make your own candler using a light bulb or bright torch as the light source.

The cheapest way to create a DIY candler is to place a light bulb (low energy light bulbs are best as you can get a very bright bulb that doesn’t generate as much heat as a conventional bulb) and light fixture or desk lamp inside a cardboard box. Cut a small, round hole in the top of the box, just big enough to sit the pointed end of your egg into. Place your egg onto this hole and turn the light on. You should be able to see what is inside the egg and with practice you will be able to identify fertile eggs by the spider-like blood veins spreading out much like a spider’s legs.

Bad eggs (sometimes called dead germs) can also be identified during the candling process. This is where the embryo starts to develop but later died and infertile eggs that are clear except for the shadow of the yolk.

Modern high power LED torches that do not give off much heat are also an excellent light source that can also be used for candling eggs. The following photo was taken with me holding my hand around the end of the torch underneath the egg. This is day 8 and the embryo can be clearly seen.

Dark shelled eggs

Dark shelled eggs (Such as Marans or Welsummer Eggs) are much harder to see through so you will need the brightest light source you can get, and will need to candle the eggs in a dark room to stand a chance of seeing development. If you still can’t tell, you will have to wait longer until the embryo has developed further and can be seen more easily.

Eggs are normally candled after 7 to 8 days of incubation. The most critical period of incubation during the development of the embryo is the first week so it is best to be patient and only take a look after the first week. You will see more after a week and can be more certain about the fertility as well. It’s not easy to see development in the first few days, especially to the untrained eye.

Candling photos

Here are some photos of candling eggs I have taken, (8 days into incubation) which will help you to know what to look for. Candling can be done earlier than this but remember the embryo is very fragile during the first few days and it is easier to see positive signs after a week when the embryo appears as a dark patch with spider like veins around it. If you are unsure whether the dark patch is inside the egg or part of the shell then you can rock the egg back and forth gently and you should see the embryo moving inside.

Candling an Infertile Egg. The Yolk can’t be seen as it is the opposite side but can sometimes be seen as a dark cloud towards the center of the egg.	Candling a Fertile Egg. Day 8. The Embryo is the dark patch in the center, blood vessels can also be seen. Notice the air sack at the top
Candling a Fertile Egg. Day 8. This is a dark brown Marans Egg. It is more difficult to candle and needs to be done in the dark to be able to see anything.	Candling a Fertile Egg. Day 8 You can’t always see the embryo. Here it is towards the center / back of the egg but blood vessels can still be seen.

So what’s happening inside the egg?

The image below should give you an idea of what is going on inside the egg by day 8.

The embryo has grown significantly and the eye is usually visible (the darkest ‘blob’ you see in the egg). There are digits on the feet, the heart is completely enclosed in the thoracic cavity, and the embryo is starting to look more like a chick. Feathers start to grow from day 8.

There is a sack attached to the embryo that is called the allantois (shown in blue). This goes around the back and head of the embryo and holds the waste. This is the yukky bit you’ll find left in the shell when the chick hatches. The yolk sack is now very red and full of blood vessels that go out into the alubumen (egg white). The air sack at the broad end of the egg has increased slightly in size.

What happens next?

Eventually, the chick will fill almost all of the space inside the egg and the air sac will increase further in size (see the diagrams below). When the chick finally hatches, it will break through the inner membrane into the air sac to take its first breaths of air. It will crack / push through the shell with its egg tooth (attached to the end of the beak). This allows further oxygen into the air sac so the chick can continue to breathe.

Over the final 24 hours, the remainder of the yolk sack will be absorbed, this will give the chick enough energy to turn inside the shell and slowly break from the shell as it goes. It will then use its feet to push itself out of the shell.

There is little point in candling eggs during the final few days other than to check for the air sack size because you will not see much. The chick almost fills the shell.

If you assist a chick in hatching, you take the risk of removing the shell too soon, before the yolk sack has been absorbed and before the navel has healed over where the allantois was attached. High humidity in the incubator will stop the membrane from drying out, keeping it soft and easy for the chick to break out.

Chicks do not need food for the first 24-48 hours after hatching thanks to the energy they get from the yolk sack (this is why commercially they can sell and ship chicks as ‘day olds’ around the country).

Air Sac Development

The images below show you the relative air sac sizes at different stages of incubation for chicken and duck eggs.

• Compare these to your eggs during candling.
• Mark your eggs with a soft pencil so you can monitor progress.
• If the air sack is too small, the incubation humidity is too high. If the air sack is too big, your incubator humidity is too low.
  

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How to Keep Short Nose Hens from Eating Their Own Eggs

Egg-eating amongst chickens usually starts as a mistake--a hen accidentally cracks an egg, and when she investigates, she finds that it's tasty and nutritious and gobbles it down. This behavior can spread quickly amongst the flock and, if left uncorrected, can be difficult to stop. This article will teach you how to provide your hens with an environment and diet that promotes the laying of strong, healthy eggs, and how to work quickly to stop the behavior before it affects the entire flock.

Supplement your chicken feed with calcium. If your chickens have a calcium deficiency, they will be unable to produce strong egg shells. If the shells are weak and crack when a hen sit or step on them, the hen will eat the broken egg. Once she discovers it contains protein and fats, and that the shell provides the calcium she needs, she will begin cracking and eating them intentionally.^[16] Other hens will observe her behavior and follow her lead.

Ground oyster shells or limestone are great sources of calcium for your chickens. Add 2lbs. (1kg) to every 100lbs. (45kg) of feed ^[17] or provide a side-feeder with these supplements for the chickens to eat.

Give your hens a dish of fresh whole milk every day for several days to increase their calcium intake.^[18]
Avoid using egg shells as a source of calcium for your chickens, as they may recognize them by sight or smell and begin eating them on their own. If you choose to do this, grind the shells into tiny pieces so the hens can't tell what they are.^[19]
You may notice your eggs have softer shells when it's hot, as chickens don't retain calcium as efficiently in hot weather. Increase your chickens' calcium supplements on warmer days.

Identify and remove the egg-eating chicken (or chickens) as soon as possible.You may not be able to catch the chicken in the act, but if you watch the flock for a few days, you should be able to identify the chicken who is responsible. The hen will have dried yolk on her beak or the side of her head, or you may see her searching the nests for eggs to eat.^[23]

• Isolate the hen from the other so she can no longer eat their eggs and they won't pick up on her bad behavior.Watch the rest of the flock to see if the egg eating stops.
• If eggs continue to be eaten, the behavior may have already spread and you may need to isolate other chickens.
• Isolating the hen may be enough of a disruption to stop her from eating the eggs.

1. Collect the eggs as soon as possible. Most hens lay their eggs before 10am, and the faster you remove them, the less chance there is for one of them to break and encourage the hens to eat the eggs.

Gather eggs at least twice a day or more often if possibleUse a dummy egg to trick the hens. Place a golf ball, a rock painted white, or a dummy egg from a feed store in each nest. Gather the real eggs as usual, but leave the dummies. When the hens peck at the "egg," they will find that it is unbreakable and no longer a source of food. They may give up trying to break the real eggs.You can also blow out a raw egg by poking a hole on the top and bottom and blowing out the contents with an egg. Then fill it with mustard and replace it in the nest. Chickens do not like mustard and this can teach them very quickly that eggs are not tasty at all

Use blinders, debeak, or cull the egg-eating chicken if you cannot break her of this behavior. Unfortunately, it can be very difficult to get chickens to stop eating eggs once they have started. If you have tried everything and your hen continues to go on egg-destroying rampages, you may need to go to extreme measures by debeaking (removing the sharp tip of the hen's beak with a hot blade) or killing the chicken.^[31]

• If you are not willing to go take those measures, you can buy special blinders that will prevent the hen from seeing things straight on. If she can only see from the side, it will be difficult for her to successfully find and peck an egg.^[32]
• You can also permanently isolate the hen or keep her separated from the others until after most of the eggs have been laid and collected. She may continue to destroy her own eggs, but the other eggs will be safe (unless the hens lay more eggs once she rejoins the flock)
  

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How to Make a Simple Homemade Incubator for Short Nose & Tail Chicks

Making the Incubator

Cut out a hole at one end of a styrofoam cooler. The hole will contain the light bulb and its socket. Insert the socket from any lamp and put in a 25 watt bulb.^[1] Place duct tape around the hole and the socket from inside and outside the cooler. This is very important in order to reduce the risk of fire.

You can also use a small box, but a styrofoam cooler works well because it is insulated.

Divide the cooler in two sides. Using chicken mesh or some other hard wire mesh, partition off the side of the cooler where the light bulb sits. Doing this is important to protect the chicks from getting burned.Optional: Create a false bottom using chicken mesh a little above the floor of the cooler. This will make cleaning out the chicken poop easier once the chicks hatch.

Add your digital thermometer and humidity gauge. Place it on the side where the eggs will be. Since the main function of an incubator is to keep the temperature and humidity inside it at an optimal level, be sure that the thermometer/gauge has a high rate of accuracy.

Add in a bowl of water. This will be your humidity source. Put in a sponge, too, so that you can adjust the amount of water easily.

Cut a viewing portal in the cooler's lid. Using the glass from a picture frame, determine how big the opening needs to be. It should be a little smaller than the dimensions of the glass. Then secure the glass by using duct tape to fasten it in the opening.

• Optional: Make a hinge for the cooler's lid by attaching it to one side of the top with duct tape
  
• Test the incubator. Before putting in the eggs, turn on the light and monitor the temperature and the humidity for a day or so.^[2] Make adjustments to the heat and humidity until they are at optimal levels. The temperature should be kept at 99.5 degrees through-out the incubation. Optimal humidity varies: it should be between 40 to 50 percent for the first 18 days and 65 to 75 percent during the last four.
• To reduce the temperature, punch holes in the sides of the cooler. If it gets too low after you do that, tape up some of the holes with duct tape.
• For the humidity, sponge up some of the water to reduce it and squeeze out more water to increase it
  
• Put in your chicken eggs. It's important to find fertilized eggs: store-bought eggs will not work. If you don't have any chickens and a rooster yourself, a good way to find fertilized eggs is to contact local farmers. Cluster the eggs close together, as this helps them maintain a constant temperature.
• The quality of the eggs depends on the health of the chickens they came from. Therefore, before purchasing eggs from a farm, ask the manager if you can inspect the facility. Free-range hens are almost always healthier than caged hens.
• An optimal hatching rate is between 50 and 85 percent.^[3]
• Laying hens are usually smaller in size and are bred to produce eggs. Meat hens, on the other hand, are bred for size. They tend to be larger birds that grow relatively quickly. However, there are chickens that are bred as dual-purpose birds. Ask the farmers you contact which variety^[4] they breed.
  

Rotate the eggs. Turn the eggs one quarter to half a turn three times daily for the first 18 days. You want to turn then so that one side faces down and the other up. Mark one side of each egg with "X" and the other side with an "O" to keep track of which side is facing up.

Candle the eggs after the first week. Candling allows you to detect infertile and bad eggs. It involves holding an egg against a bright light in a dark room to see inside. You can purchase a candling device, but for most situations, a small, bright flashlight^[5] will do. If you find any bad or infertile eggs, remove them from the incubator.

• If you use a flashlight, its lens should be the small enough so that the light is directed at the egg.
• Another way to make a homemade candler^[6] is to insert a desk lamp inside a cardboard box with a small round hole cut at the top. Put the egg in this hole to candle it.
• You may have to gently turn the egg up and down or from side to side to better see its contents.
• A living embryo^[7] appears as a dark spot with blood vessels radiating out from it.
• A dead embryo can show up as a ring or a streak of blood inside the shell.

Infertile eggs light up bright and even since there is no embryo inside

Listen for the sounds of the chicks starting to hatch. On the 21st day, the chicks will "pip" their shells in order to breathe after bursting the air sacks. Watch them carefully after this point. It can take up to twelve hours after "pipping" for a chick to fully emerge from its shell.

If some of the chicks haven't concluded their hatching after twelve hours, go ahead and remove the tops of those eggs.

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13 Reasons Your Chickens Stopped Laying Eggs and the Solutions

Did you go out to your coop this morning only to find no eggs? Frustrating, isn’t it? It also makes us worried. So, is it serious? What can we do about it?

The answer to the question varies. Fortunately, most of the time when chickens stop laying it is because of minor things that can be easily fixed. Take heart! Your precious hen will hopefully be back to laying those delicious eggs in no time.

1. First Thing First: Was Your Hen Ever Laying?

Hens usually don’t begin to lay until around 6 months old. This can vary depending on the breed. Heavier birds may start laying later than 6 months while lighter weight breeds may start laying earlier.

Our first set of chickens were Rhode Island Reds. They didn’t begin laying until almost 8 months old. When we invested in Dominiques, they started laying at around 4-5 months.

Some of you may be reading this and thinking, “I know my bird was laying!” But, really if you have multiple chickens, sometimes it is hard to keep up with who laid what.

Solution: Make sure you're not you're not worrying over nothing. If you aren’t 100% sure your hen was laying to begin with, keep a close eye over the next few weeks. If she isn’t showing any other symptoms then maybe she wasn’t really laying in the first place.

Wouldn’t that be a relief?

2. Is She Too Old to Lay?

Maybe your chicken is the polar opposite of what we've just discussed. Maybe the old girl is getting up in age, and you are noticing she just isn’t laying like she used to. That’s okay. Every year, a chicken’s egg production will lessen.

Chickens can live up to 8-10 years in age. By the time they reach this age, though, they are rarely laying. This is where it gets difficult. Some people only raise chickens for eggs. Some get rather attached to their chickens and don’t care if they quit laying because of age. You have options either way.

Solution: If you realize your beloved hen has stopped laying because of her age, then it is time to make a decision. If your chicken is more like a pet, then you might decide to keep her around until she dies naturally.

If you love her but just can’t afford to keep an animal that isn’t giving back any longer then there are chicken retirement homes. If you love your chicken but aren’t quite as emotionally attached then it might be time to butcher her.

3. Some Breeds are Better at Giving Eggs

This might seem a little obvious, but some chickens that are amazing layers while others are just so-so producers. Depending on your hen’s breed, this might explain why you aren’t getting eggs from her any longer.

Road Island Reds, Sexlinks, and White Leghorns are just a few breeds known for being excellent layers while other chickens like Dominiques and Jersey Giants are less known for their laying talents. Here's a list of 10 chicken breeds that are the best at laying eggs.

Solution: Do your research. Use sites like Google to find out what your breed of chicken usually produces. If your hen is a Road Island Red but she isn't laying as many as expected, then you’ll know that she probably has a problem.

However, if you have another breed such as a Jersey Giant, and you know that she isn’t showing any other symptoms, then maybe she just isn’t producing as many eggs because of her breed. Jersey Giants, another example, are great dual purpose birds for meat and eggs. Yet, they won’t produce as much as some other breeds of chickens.

4. Do Your Chickens Have New Friends? Or Have You Moved Them to a New Neighborhood?

Sometimes when you add new chickens to your flock, your more seasoned layers will stop laying. It throws them through a jolt adding new members to their household. This should make perfect sense to anyone that has ever gone through a similar experience.

Think of it as a blended family. Anyone that has ever blended two families or adopted a child knows how difficult it is starting out finding the new “rhythm” of the household.

Chickens really aren’t that much of a different. It takes a while for them to figure out where everyone’s space is. Once they get things figured out, they’ll go back to laying.

The same thing applies if you have recently moved your chickens. Maybe your family moved to a new neighborhood, or maybe you just moved your chickens’ coop across the yard. Either way, chickens are creatures of routine. Anything that throws off that routine can ultimately make it to where they stop laying for a few days at a time.

Solution: All you can do in these instances is practice some patience. It shouldn’t take your chickens more than a few days to get adjusted and figure everything out. During this time, if you’ve added new members to their household, they’ll need to establish a new pecking order and routine.

If you’ve moved their coop across town or across the yard, it will take your chickens a few days to figure out their new surroundings. Once they become familiarized with everything again, they’ll return to laying.

5. The Summertime Blues

Hens love daylight. It requires 16 hours of daylight for them to lay an egg, usually. So when the winter rears its head, don’t be surprised if your chickens don’t lay as many eggs.

Hens are really funny animals. The rooster usually crows as the sun is coming up (or maybe a little earlier.) Hens are not early risers, though. This was surprising to me when I first started keeping chickens. They don’t bother flying down off of the roost until the sun is up.

During the winter, this means they don’t rise nearly as early. This also means that they go to bed much earlier because of how early night falls.

If your chickens aren’t laying and it is winter time, don’t be alarmed. They aren’t awake long enough for their bodies to produce an egg. If you are lucky, you might have a few faithful layers that will give you an egg every few days. If not, you might have to buy your eggs during the winter months.

Solution: Okay, so maybe you are like me and abhor having to buy anything that you can produce in your backyard.

My hens went on a laying hiatus this past winter, and when I went to the store and had to purchase eggs, I honestly thought I was going to have a breakdown. I hadn’t realized how much the price of eggs had gone up, and I found myself a little nervous not knowing exactly what I was eating.

I quickly sought advice from all of my local chicken-keeper friends. They laughed at my hysteria over a lack of eggs and then told me to put a light in my chicken coop. They told me if I’d put a regular lamp in their coop (and you can even put the lamp on a timer like, so you don’t have to turn it off and on daily) then it would keep the hens awake, and they’d lay for me.

6. Hens Need Protein Shakes

Chickens are like us in some ways. Their bodies have to have proper nutrition to function as they should.

So you probably shouldn't start giving your chickens protein shakes, but they do need lots of protein. If your hens aren’t laying be sure they are getting enough protein. They can get a large dose of protein through layer pellets.

If you are giving them layer pellets and still aren’t seeing their production increase then try giving them high protein treats like pumpkin seeds or meal worms.

Solution: Chickens need protein. We have already stated you can achieve this through high protein treats and laying pellets. That should be enough, right? Not always. The other component to a proper diet is grit and water. Chickens need grit to help them process their food. Be sure they are getting enough.

They also need lots of fresh water. Chickens love to gulp water. I have tried the fancy chicken waterers. If your chickens are happy with them, then keep on keepin’ on. If not, switch. I have found that a 2.5-gallon bucket with fresh water makes for some happy chickens. They can gulp it and multiple chickens can drink at once. Be sure to dump it daily.

7. Chickens Like to Stare into the Fridge

I know---chickens don’t have refrigerators. But in their mind, they like to see a full cabinet. Even when they aren’t hungry. Don’t act like you don’t mosey over to the fridge around bedtime, not really hungry, but just to stare at it and to see if anything might tempt you or just for reassurance that your fridge is stocked.

It brings peace to your stomach to see that there is plenty there to stuff it full tomorrow. Well, your chickens are the same way. They want to know that they have plenty of food. Otherwise, they’ll start assuming that they might starve. They reroute nutrients in their body to keep them from starving which in turn stops them from laying eggs. That is pretty neat that they can do that, right?

Solution: Leave ample amount of food in their coop. Even if they don’t eat it all, that’s okay. It is a constant reminder to their little chicken brains that they aren’t going to starve, life is good, and to keep on laying eggs!

We keep a large automatic feeder in the middle of our chicken coop. I usually only fill it up about once a week. When I see that it is about a quarter of the way from being empty, I’m sure to fill it up. I can honestly sense the panic in the chickens. They all start gathering around it wondering if it’s going to be refilled. Those are the moments I am sure to stop what I’m doing and make their little day by refilling it.

8. Time to Call ‘Merry-Maids’

You may have someone that goes around your homestead and cleans everything up for you. If so, you are one fortunate soul! I am not so lucky. I have to clean out all of our animals’ areas as needed. If your hens aren’t laying, check your nesting material. If the nesting material is not clean, then they won’t lay in it.

Now, anyone that has had chickens for any length of time knows that a sleeping chicken is a pooping chicken. Sometimes chickens sleep in their nesting boxes. This doesn’t mean you have to go in and dump all of that nesting material every single morning. That would get expensive. So what do you do?

Solution: Be sure once or twice a week you empty out the chickens’ nesting boxes. It needs to be completely dumped and refilled with good nesting material. You can use straw, wood shavings, or even shredded paper. My new favorite nesting material is pine shavings.

It keeps their nests smelling fresh, and my girls seem to love it. It is great at absorbing all things gross and keeping their nesting boxes rather neat until the next time I come around to clean.

I am sure to keep a cleaning schedule. I have one day a week that I go through and clean out all of the animals’ areas. That way, I can do any touch-up cleaning during morning chores throughout the week.

9. Mama Hen

Chickens will not lay when they are being broody. This means that your chicken has laid a clutch (a full nest) and is ready to set her eggs. They will not lay during this time.

How do you know if your chicken is being broody?

• She will set her eggs all day and not leave the nesting box.
• She will become very protective of her eggs and not let anything or anyone near them.
• She will pull her breast feathers to give warmth to her eggs.

Solution:  If your chicken has become broody be very thankful! She just saved you the cost of an incubator and is going to grow your flock for you. A broody hen is a treasure and is very rare. Out of all of the chickens we have raised, I have yet to have one that will set her eggs. This may lower the amount of fresh eggs you get for a period of time but in the long run it is a huge help.

10. I’m Molting…I’m Moooolting

Okay - so that was supposed to be a play on words from the ‘Wizard of Oz’ but anyway… Chickens molt. It is just something they do on a yearly basis. It usually happens around the same time as the seasons change. When winter hits and day light decreases, molt comes on. This means that they lose their old feathers and grow new ones. Molt is also a time when their bodies rejuvenate.

The important things to know about molting are:

• Egg laying ceases.
• The chickens are susceptible to illness during this time because their bodies are trying to rejuvenate.
• Your chickens will look crazy because they usually decide to all molt at once!

Solution: I recommend to let your chickens go through molt. It is natural and a process their bodies need. If you absolutely do not want them to go in molt you can add artificial lighting to their coop. This keeps them from molting. However, be advised that when artificial light is added and then removed, your chickens will molt at spontaneous times throughout the year.

11. Call the Doctor

If your hen is not laying, it might be time to look for signs of illness. This is difficult because where chickens are preyed upon they do not show signs of illness if at all possible.

If your hen is showing signs it is wise to seek out a veterinarian that could help her. One of the biggest concerns in keeping chickens is ‘bird flu.’ This can be spread from bird to human. If you suspect that your chicken has it, don’t delay and call the vet.

You will then need to call your county agent to have your birds tested and the proper authorities notified that there was in fact a case in your county.

Sometimes chickens get respiratory viruses that are not bird flu. We had a terrible case that wiped out a large part of our flock this year. Chickens do not get colds. They get respiratory viruses.

It looks like they have a runny nose and they begin to gurgle or snore. As soon as you hear the first snore, quarantine the chicken. Most people say that you have to cull any of the birds that catch a respiratory virus. We did not have to cull ours. The ones that made it have gone back to laying.

Solution: When your birds get sick all you can do is seek medical treatment. There are some natural ways to cure respiratory virus in chickens. The most important first step is to be sure it is just a regular virus and not ‘bird flu’. After bird flu has been ruled out then you need to quarantine the sick chickens. Feed them lots of fresh herbs, put ACV in their water with garlic, and offer them as many super foods as they will eat.

It is all about boosting their immune systems. Then you just have to wait until their bodies heal, and they return to laying. As mentioned, illness often coincides with molt. So pay extra close attention to your chickens during the early winter months.

12. There is sn Egg — It's Just Stuck

Chickens will get eggs stuck at times. This is called egg binding. What it means is that your chicken literally has an egg stuck. This happens when your chicken has a calcium deficiency, a small pelvis, or is trying to pass a large, misshapen egg.

There are ways to help your chicken when they are in this predicament. If the chicken cannot pass the egg, it can lead to death.

Solution: You can contact your vet and see if giving the chicken an injection of calcium would help. Placing your chicken in warm water and massaging her might help her muscles relax so she can release the egg.

You could also apply lubrication to make the passing of the egg a little easier for her.

13. Coop Isn’t Big Enough for All of Us

Chickens don’t require a lot of space, but they still need their space. If you have too many chickens in one coop, your hens will not lay. How much space a chicken needs depends on upon if they are free range or cooped.

You only need about 3 or 4 square feet of space for a free range chicken. They will spend most of their day out in the yard, so they only need their space for sleeping. If you have cooped birds, then they will need about 10 square feet of space per chicken.

Solution: In this instance, you will either need to build a coop with adequate space for your chickens or back down on the number of chickens you keep. Here are great coop ideasthat should help in providing adequate coop space for each of your feathered friends! Your birds will be much happier if given proper living space. And everyone knows that happy hens are happy layers!

for sale,,,,,,,,,,,,

Pure short and long tail Cock
parrot beak and temper,tail male&hens
good quality Chicks Available,,,,,,,,,

Salem arun
PH;9514438445

Delivery available ALL OVER INDIA/ CHARGES APPLY....